We haven’t written a blog since November. Laziness or lack of motivation, I suppose, are to blame. We’re into the hot dry season. The temperature rose to 82 degrees in the house the other day. That’s the hottest it’s ever been. I can’t imagine what it’s like in some of these brick homes with cement roofs. I suspect the temperature must reach into the 100s in the afternoons. No wonder many folks spend their time outside in the shade.  From morning to nine and about six to sunset are the comfortable times to work outside. Everyone is talking rain. We’re really looking forward to those overcast days when the temperature hovers in the low 70s. I’m always amazed when people tell me that this is their favorite time of year. They love the heat.  90° is uncomfortable for us. We went to a birthday party in Union Zapata the other day and were astonished to see a game of soccer being played. This was in the peak of the heat. Don’t know why they didn’t play their game in the morning. Could have been a tournament, I suppose. Anyway, we were shocked.   The location of the comida was one the side of a hill where three separate areas had been cleared making three terraced areas. The steps between each area consisted of cement blocks stacked to make steps. I was sitting on the bottom area when I noticed three young boys about four years old playing. They were running around chasing each other. At that point I began to take in my surroundings. To say that it looked like an obstacle course would be an understatement. In fact I thought if the US Army used a similar location for training parents would be outraged. Anyway amongst the rocks, piles of cement, uneven ground, tree stumps, pieces of rebar sticking up from the ground, the unfinished outhouse that consisted of a huge hole, sharp pieces of tin roofing, and cooking fires these young boys were maneuvering around chasing each other. There were lots of people watching but no one seemed to doubt that the boys were smart enough to avoid the obstacles.

We bought four hens and a rooster. Fresh eggs every day! We are unable to consume them all so many are given away. Sitting on the porch and watching the birds scratch around has become part of our daily routine. They too run for shade during the peak of high temperature. Under my truck is their favorite location to get out of the sun. Pickings are scarce for them now. Not many insects. When we first got them, the yard was full of various morsels. They rely on ground corn to survive. When the rain arrives, they’ll get their fill of grasshoppers which are here in the thousands.  The grasshoppers eat our tree leaves so it will be interesting to see how effective the chickens are in reducing damage. They have greatly reduced the ant population who also eat tree leaves.  I had some leftover one by twelves that were used for cement forms, so I used them to make a coop. They have to be locked up at night or they’ll be eaten by the various animals that come down from the mountains at night. In the morning when their door is opened, they file out and immediately begin the search for insects. At night they file back in by themselves. They also return to the coop to lay their eggs.  About a month after we got our hens, the neighbor’s rooster started coming over which we tolerated. Then he began leading our hens over to his yard. The hens didn’t return during the day so we were not getting any eggs. This went on for some time. I talked to my neighbor but he was unwilling to do anything. We even bought a rooster, but at that time Big Boy was no match for our neighbor’s rooster. The problem was solved when my neighbor’s rooster mysteriously died. Our chickens now stay in the yard and have accepted Big Boy as their leader.

Fortunately Big Boy can't read.

This little door makes it easy to collect eggs.

As food became scarce outside they now come into the patio to beg for something fresh.

It's funny watching them file out in the morning.

Big Boy and Betty. They don't seem to mind American names!

The eggs always vary in color.

The dogs are always looking for a handout.

I caught Coby in the coop.

When I last measured, our well was holding at six meters of water. I expected less. We water fruit trees every other day and shade trees every fourth day. I installed some valves to make it a little easier to switch from watering outside to filling the tinaco inside for home use. We add a little chlorine when will fill the tinaco that’s why I added the screw on cap.

We continue to be appreciative for our internet. Because there are still so many things we do that are foreign to us, we are constantly turning to Google. It’s not an exaggeration to say that we sometimes Google particular subjects three or four times a day. I can’t imagine living here without Google. Solving problems would have been extremely difficult, if not impossible.  Facebook has gotten a little frustrating. I still don’t read news but am sometimes drawn to spectacular political headlines that are regurgitated on Facebook. Ninety-nine percent of the time the headlines prove to be false and I feel foolish for being sucked in. We’ve solved the problem by unfollowing those who seem to revel in regurgitating negative political news without checking the validity of the story.

Our computer of nine years finally gave out so we bought a new one. Windows is in Spanish. We keep a dictionary next to the computer but many words are not listed. When a scary box pops up, (one of those are you sure you want to do that?) it’s a bit unnerving. Adding to the language change was the switch from XP to Windows 8.1. Fortunately all programs we install are in English. The Latin keyboard was worse to deal with than the Spanish operating system. We figured out how to configure the keyboard to US style and have added our old keyboard. Much better!!!

 I am learning to play guitar with the ultimate goal of playing slide. There is so much information available. From the internet I’m learning scales, finding new chords, acquiring background tracks to play along with, learning tips from old time guitar players, learning how to set my amp for particular sounds, finding sheet music to learn familiar songs, and there is even a metronome on the internet to practice staying in time. This information is all the more important because I’ve yet to find anyone that plays anything except Latino music.  Added to the disconnect of musical tastes is the Mexican formula for identifying notes and ultimately chords. In the US notes and chords are identified by the, a b c d e f g method. Here, “do ra me fa so la ti do” is used. Rapid chord changes are impossible. When I’m told to go to ra, for instance, I have to use fingers to count much like when I first learned the days of the week.  There is no lack of musical talent here. With all the fiestas there is a plethora of groups competing to play at weddings, birthday parties, anniversaries, and town fiestas. I’ve probably mentioned it before, but it’s still interesting to see eighty year olds listening to the same music as fourteen year olds. It’s not always the case, but I think music here in general passes through more generations than in the States. Maybe Country music would be the exception.

Four months ago a friend brought us a two month old pup that had been abandoned. We named him Coby. He’s a mix with some hunting dog blood in him. He’s been a wonderful addition to our home. He is a bit goofy, but oh so innocent. We were able to house break him pretty quickly. He would eat all day if we allowed him. He loves chicken poop. He’ll literally walk behind the chickens waiting for them to drop a snack. It’s a bit dangerous and we’ve tried to change his behavior but with little results. The other day we caught him inside the chicken coop. He barely fits through the door. Each time he goes into the coop, he falls through the screening we use as a floor. Each time I repair it, I make it a little stronger. He tried to enter the coop again the other day, but he could only get his head and front paws in. Beth chased him out, so hopefully he’s learning that we don’t like it.

Lucky, the dog we inherited from our neighbor, is pregnant. We wanted to take her to the vet and have her fixed but she’d been abused so bad she won’t let us touch her. She too has a bad eye. She’s a great guard dog and always the first to bark when someone passes or comes to the house. She wags her tail and greets us when we return to the house after being gone but stops at letting us touch her. She’s had a couple of close calls with death mostly due to infections. The name Lucky fits her well.

Our one eyed Scooter is almost eleven. After being a house dog for so many years in Brownsville, he seems to love the freedom he has here. He still struggles with the plants that have spinas. Poor guy spends much of his day sleeping now but still likes to explore our property like he’s on guard duty. He doesn’t have much to do with the other dogs. He enjoys his time with us or alone. He’s a grouchy little guy but we’re sure going to miss him when he goes. Everyone that comes to the house is amazed by how well he communicates with us.

I saw a young Mexican boy in Tlacolula the other day wearing a German helmet.  It cracked me up.

We had a little scare the other day. I was standing on the porch the other evening talking on the phone when up the road came four police vehicles and three motorcycles.  I panicked a little thinking what have we done but was relieved when they passed by the house.  It turns out that the police had stopped a fellow who’d stolen a car that he was using to transport drugs.  He ran so the police were scouring the area. They eventually caught him.

The new prison down the road is almost completed.  It won’t be long until prisoners from all over Mexico will be transferred here. It’s a maximum security prison. Our apprehension isn’t so much with escapees as with the possible migration of family members of the incarcerated. 

Living amidst the poverty continues to weigh on us. It can be so overwhelming.  As the dollar rises in power, the peso drops and makes life here more difficult for Mexicans.  I was talking to a Walmart worker the other day.  She makes fifteen pesos an hour. That’s almost an hour’s work to buy a Coke.  Standard wage here is now about 150 to 200 pesos a day, roughly 10 to 15 dollars. Mexico for the most part lacks the safety nets and programs offered in the US so people must fend for themselves. Combined with the sorrow is an admiration we feel watching thousands of people eke out a living on their own. The ingenious ways they come up with to make a few pesos is humbling.

Beth continues to enjoy growing flowers and edibles.  January and February were the best months to grow lettuce here and we had a great crop from one large planter. She also planted marigolds which flourished in the cool weather. Now with warmer temperatures and more sun, she has planted spinach, sunflowers, little onions, radishes, cilantro, garlic, and little cucumbers.  If she can find the dill seeds or fresh dill, Beth would like to make some kosher dill pickles which we haven’t been able to purchase locally. Her roses and geraniums continue to do well as long as we water regularly. Our fruit trees (lime, mandarin, orange, apple, and avocados) have been advancing well with regular watering. We look forward to the additional growth that all our trees and plants will experience once the rainy season begins.  

We went to Sam’s Club this past Tuesday. While in the store an alarm went off and all customers were escorted out due to an earthquake. They no sooner let us back in when there was another. Back outside we went.  In all our years here and in various states in the US, we had never been told to leave a store due to an earthquake. We saw no visible damage and were allowed back in the store within minutes.

We’re going on three years here in the valley. One of the things that was initially missing was a network of providers. It’s scary not knowing which doctor to use, which auto mechanic to trust and so on. That’s different now. We’re pretty comfortable with those that we have chosen to make our purchases from. It’s added a fuller sense of security and of belonging. It’s one of those things you take for granted especially if you’ve lived in a location for an extended period of time.

We discovered something interesting today (May 6^th): the rooster (Big Boy) and the hens (Betty, Goldie, Blackie, and Dixie) all love Bimbo Bread Integral (whole wheat), and both Scooter and Coby love Holanda Blackberry Cheesecake ice cream!! Hmmm, no wonder Coby now weighs 46 lbs. and little Scooter weighs 13 lbs.

Our first year here what appeared to be rat excrement began showing up in front of our gate every morning. Turns out it was a bat. I sprayed water up in the archway and the bat flew away. The next year they came back and I sprayed again. This year when the droppings appeared I decided to let him stay. Pretty soon though there was quite a bit of droppings. Then there were more. I finally sprayed water and thirteen bats flew out.  I hated spraying this year but it really is a mess.

I don’t ever remember living anywhere where the smells were so distinct and powerful. When you walk through the market there is an incredible variety of different smells. Many of them are pleasant but some are not. I usually hold my breath when we walk by the dried fish and shrimp area. The drains are not usually sealed so there are often human waste odors.  There are so many street venders making different types of food. I’m sure the smells of the vendors is an advertising technique. The fruits are sold ripe here so their smells linger. Roasting chickens, all types of tacos, barbacoa de chivo, all types of fresh breads, grilled beef, coffee being brewed, fresh pork rinds, fresh tortillas, flowers, and sometimes garbage. The central market isn’t just busy on Sundays. The market is full of people every day especially in the mornings.

The food reminds me of the lack of diversity here. Not much diversity in food, religion, Nationality, dress, or customs. Often the diversity that does exist is minimal. We have noticed the difference between the folks in Oaxaca City and the people here in the valley. People typically greet you in the towns here. They are much friendlier. I suppose it’s that way around the world.  I think the lack of diversity often works in their favor.

Beth and I were discussing the difference between the roles of a homemaker here compared to in the States. Here in the valley especially in the small villages water has to be hauled maybe not far but it still has to be hauled. Clothes are washed by hand usually taking several hours to complete. Almost all food is prepared from scratch many times being cooked over a wood fire which takes time to make. Collecting firewood is an ongoing process for many families. Many women, aside from being homemakers, have found a way to make a few extra pesos: selling cups of jello, tortillas, bread, sewn items, objects made from palm leaves, having a little store in their house, raising animals, and countless other ways. Many women additionally help their husbands in the fields. The point being here in the valley the saying, a women’s work is never done truly applies.

A while back I tried to pay for groceries at Walmart. For some reason my debit card wouldn’t go through so I asked the cashier to hold on. She returned my card and I withdrew from a cash machine and paid the cashier. It wasn’t until a week later when we were making another purchase in Walmart that I realized the cashier hadn’t returned my driver’s license. I went to the customer service counter and to my relief they had my license.   I’m afraid this wouldn’t have been the case in many stores. Buying in an open market (not yuppie farmer’s markets) opens your eyes to why the FDA was started. There are so many products at the market that we just won’t buy. Any kind of control is nonexistent. People do all kinds of things to make an extra peso at the expense of buyers. I am much more comfortable at Walmart. I often think of mistakes made by the FDA, but I’ll take a non-perfect organization over no organization any day. Walmart is clean; I don’t worry about pick-pockets; I pay the same as locals; most products are guaranteed; items are sealed; and prices are competitive.

Many of the women from small villages wear plastic shoes. There is no support. I wonder what the effect is on their legs. Many women walk with a small limp. As these women age, they also complain of problems with their knees, hips, back, and ankles. I can’t help but wonder if those plastic shoes are the cause.  Men’s shoes are not much better. Most farmers wear huaraches which are still made with a tire for a sole. I had a pair for a while but gave them away. My feet killed me when I was on my feet for an extended time.

As I am writing this we are preparing for another trip to Guatemala to secure new permissions to be in Mexico. We are hoping this is our last trip. We have started the process of putting our property in our names which will aid us in obtaining immigration status. We’ll also be able to nationalize our truck and buy medical insurance.

Best wishes to friends and family. We hope to see some of you here.

Finally on this Mother’s Day, I’d like to thank my partner of over thirty-five years for sticking with me and helping me realize my dreams. Without her support and input, they would have been impossible. She’s been a good mother to our children, the foundation in our home, and continues to search for new adventures. She is strong, loving, and cares for others. I appreciate her patience and thoughtfulness. It’s been difficult at times having a partner that’s smarter than I am. I applaud her for her academic accomplishments. The move here to Mexico presented her with many new challenges which she met with her usual determination and fortitude. I’ve enjoyed watching her adapt to our country life in a foreign country. Happy Mother’s Day, Beth.

For a school project Jose had to interview a non-Mexican living in Mexico.

Our friend Abelardo opened a taco stand in Union Zapata. The tacos are great!

    Taking the boys to the Vet. Coby has grown so much he no longer fits in the cab.

The post office in Tlacolula. No sign of automation.

Yesenia in a Shakespeare play. She's a little beauty.

Felipe taking a break during a comida.

This is what it looks like when a group decides to block the highway. It's pretty unusual in Tlacolula.

Went up to the mountains and was surprised how cold it was.

I can imagine Scooter thinking: um fried, boiled, or roasted!

Beth with the mother of a dear friend. I think Beth's cheeks are rosy from drink!