Monica and Aldelfo's wedding

August 22, 2015  •  5 Comments

While living in Sedro Woolley, Beth and I photographed hundreds of weddings. We’ve also photographed a few here in Oaxaca. On August 15th we photographed our most memorable wedding for Adelfo and Monica in Matatlan. It was a large wedding. I estimate about five hundred guests. Adelfo is from Matatlan. Their wedding customs are still very traditional. Mixed with their customs were the traditions of Mitla, Monica’s home town. I had to stay on my toes as I was often unaware of what was going to happen next.  

We were invited to the groom’s house the day before the wedding for lunch. I couldn’t believe all the preparation. There were at least fifty people performing different tasks. And they were very organized. Everything was made from scratch so preparing meals was labor intensive. A cow, two pigs, eight large turkeys, and two chickens were butchered.

Later in the day I began a conversation with a man from Matalan. After we chatted for a while he told me that when Beth and I first arrived he and his friends thought we were lost and just kinda wandered into Juan's yard. He didn't say so, but they must have been a little annoyed when I immediately began taking photos. It was a little embarrassing realizing we were perceived as dumb gringos that had lost their way or that maybe we were trying to buy some mezcal. Once it had been explained that we were friends, everyone became very friendly. We've often heard people speak Zapotec, but this was the first time we'd been around so many Zapotec speakers. It reminded me of when we first started coming down to Oaxaca and did not understand what folks were saying in Spanish.

We were invited back the day of the wedding for breakfast. After breakfast we walked with the bride and groom, along with a band and several people from the groom’s house, to the church about a kilometer away. The ceremony was similar to any Catholic wedding except the bride and groom had their son baptized as well. Adelfo and Monica were married civilly three years ago and now wanted to have a church wedding. I believe this was so their son could be baptized. After the wedding we marched backed to the groom’s home and were served a bowl of noodle vegetable soup after which guests received a serving of ice cream. Later the full meal was served. A whole lot of food was consumed along with eighty cases of beer and twenty bottles of mezcal.

I happened to be near when the fireworks were set off. I was across the road when they were lit but was hit twice hard enough that I still have bruises. I’m sure if the fireworks had been encased in metal, the shrapnel would have penetrated my body. I believe the ground actually shook! This was not the place for any veteran suffering from PTSD to be.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

Preparing a tub with carizzo. Meat was later stacked on the carizzo. Water and spices were used to steam the meat. The tub was eventually buried in a large hole with several hot rocks on the bottom. The tub was covered with aluminum foil and sheets of cardboard and tin, then covered with dirt. Cooking time was about five hours.

 

 

Many pots of either water or oil were heated outdoors over fires.

 

And the hens and their chicks were often underfoot.

Pork rinds were made and were part of the prep day meal.

 

I'm not exactly sure where this pork ended up.

 

The women work well together.

This is the outdoor kitchen Juan completed in preparation for this huge event.

 

 

There were several cooking fires scattered around the yard.

 

Naturally, cold beer was served to help cool every one down.

 

 

All the workers were served lunch which included horchata and handmade tortillas.

 

 

Most every one had a hearty appetite after all the hours of prep.

 

Monica the bride.

 

These women are preparing the leftovers for others to take home.

 

 

 

Aldelfo the groom.

 

 

 

 

 

Butchering the cow.

 

 

 

This was a little tough to watch. Removing the brains.

 

Here the head is split open and small pieces of meat are being cut off. Here in Oaxaca there is not much from an animal that is not eaten.

 

Before the actual wedding ceremony, guest were served breakfast. Here the women are almost ready to start serving the chocolate and breads.

Washing dishes was a monumental task. They were constantly being washed and rewashed. All the women pitch in to help.

 

 

Women preparing chocolate that they call espuma.

 

 

All guests received three pieces of bread to eat with their chocolate.

 

 

Dolores indoor kitchen is large and great for preparing chocolate and sweet bread ready to be served to guests.

 

 

 

 

I have no idea how many tortillas were made but it had to be in the hundreds. Two women were assigned to the task.

 

 

 

 

 

The morning of the wedding a local band of young men showed up. A lot of their music reminded me of marching songs.

 

 

 


 

Beto receiving his first cup of mezcal.

 

 

 

Breakfast was higaditos (a type of scrambled eggs with chicken and spices in broth).

Beth is wiping down the rental chairs while breakfast is ready to be served.

 

 

 

Beto and his extended family.

 

 

These things really make a noise.

 

 

 

 

 

The young man on the left videoed the wedding.

 

Walking to the church. People came out of their houses to watch the procession.

 

 

 

Typical Beto on his cell phone.

 

Monica came to the church by auto. She's waiting to enter the church.

 

 

 

Giobanni being baptized.

 

 

 

I believe the significance of the chain is to bind the couple together.

 

 

 

Exiting the church. My favorite photo of the day.

 

 

 

Returning home.

 

 

 

This is when I got hit.

 

Nothing wrong with my camera. The incense created a lot of smoke.

 

One thing I noticed is that people were not always eating the same thing at the same time. If you arrived late, you still began with chocolate and bread, and then breakfast.

 

 

 

Again the vast majority of folks in the photos were Zapotec speakers. Juan hired waiters to help serve food and drinks.

 

 

 

Uncovering the cow being cooked.

 

That tub weighed hundreds of pounds.

 

 

 

 

 

Monica with Beto's daughter, Yesenia.


Making and wearing these "coronas" of flowers and greens is another wedding tradition here in Matatlan.

 

 

 

The baptism cake. The financial obligations of the padrinos are pretty significiant.

 

Wedding cake.

 

This family wanted a photo but insisted Beth was in it.

 

 

Ready to serve dinner to those who have arrived from Mitla.

 

 

 

Juan with one of the madrinas.

 

The guests from Mitla didn't arrive until nine. It was immediately obvious that they were from another village. Here you see women from Mitla dancing with the gifts they brought.

 

 

Two days after the wedding Beto and his family came to visit us. I asked Beto if he had gotten drunk. He claimed he hadn't but I believe this photo removes all doubt.

 

Late dinner being served to the folks from Mitla.

 

This padrino is playing the role of a bull.

 

Aldelfo's mother Dolores and her brother cutting the rug.

 

Mother and father of Monica along with spokseman and a few others ask Aldelfo's parents to receive their daughter and their gifts.

 

 

 

Giobanni wasn't into the mordida.

 

 

 

 

This was an incredible event for Beth and I. I began taking photos at nine. We left at twelve thirty AM. We were exhausted! Later we were told that many guests didn't leave until four in the morning. We wish much happiness to Aldelfo and Monica and thank them for allowing us to be part of their celebration.


Comments

Larry McCartin(non-registered)
Your photos made me feel like I was there. I really enjoyed learning so much about our neighbors to the South. Regards, Larry
Kevin Cruthirds(non-registered)
What an exciting experience! So many great pictures of a wonderful cultural event. I am most curious about the beef in the tub. It was hard to understand what it really looked like after cooking. Were those herbs and seasonings on top? How was it served, meat with broth or more as a soup? Spicy? You know me, I am all about food!
One of the traditions(?) most intriguing was that no matter when you arrived, you started with breakfast then worked your way through the day's meals, I guess in order. No way any of this could have taken place without the help of so many people. Reminds me of the good old days when we actually worked together rather than run up the credit card and buy it all prepared.

Your experiences are always fascinating. Thank you for sharing. All the best!
Kevin
p.s. UTRGV starts up pretty soon with 8/31 being the first day of class. It is exciting but at the same time very crazy getting all the ducks lined up.
Freda Westnedge(non-registered)
ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!! Thanks for sharing
Vic Alonso(non-registered)
All the pics are awesome! great quality and the food looks amazing.. happy to see it was a succesful event
Mick(non-registered)
Great pictures! I can't wait to come down and visit(Permanently).
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