Today is our 62nd day in Oaxaca and our 58th in Don Pedrillo. Our first days at Don Pedrillo were without water, power, or bathroom. We used candles at night, bathed at the home of friends, did our business in the woods, ate our meals in restaurants, used the generator  to power tools, and had water trucked in. Needless to say, the first few days were very challenging.

Other than being stopped several times by the Federal Police our trip down was without incident. We were very apprehensive when we left because of the travel warnings due to the activities of the drug cartels. It seemed that everyone we talked to in Texas had a story of a friend of a friend being confronted in some degree by cartel members. As we pulled out of Matomoros we were hopeful but wary. It soon became obvious however that the highways seemed safe. There were literally hundreds of other travelers’ and the ominous presence of the Federal Police and Mexican Military.

The trip took three days. We were always in a hotel before dark. Because we’d made the trip several times in the past we knew the route well along with our favorite places to eat and sleep. Mickey and Yadi made the trip with us along with Polo and his wife Amparo, who’d driven their truck and trailer up to the boarder to help us move our things.

From Matamoros to San Luis Potosi, well, I can’t say much. But from San Luis to Oaxaca was beautiful. Also from San Luis south the roads are much better. Mostly freeway with at least two lanes each way with a divider.

Mexico’s gas stations are owned by the government. When we made our first trip in 1994 they were few and far between with minimal services. Today Pemex gas stations flood the highways. They are usually accompanied by a store. Many times you’ll find restaurants, Cappuccino outlets, gift stores, and a multitude of various types of vendors. Mexican gas prices don’t fluctuate like they do in the states. I compared prices the other day and found the price to be close to Texas prices. 

Oaxaca is located about 900 miles from the southernmost point of Texas, (Brownsville). I included a map of Mexico with Oaxaca underlined in red.

I’ve also included a map of the valley showing where we live in relation to local towns and villages. Don Pedrillo lies between Tlacolula and Mitla. It’s marked by a green arrow.

Most of our shopping is done in Tlacolula, a town of about 20,000 inhabitants. It hosts a fabulous outdoor market every Sunday. People come from the surrounding villages and towns to buy and sell. The market has gained worldwide recognition. It’s not unusual to hear several European languages spoken on any given Sunday. The market offers fruits and vegetables, meats, furniture, a variety of live animals, electric appliances, building material, local cuisine, clothing, shoes, and about everything else a family needs to survive. Beth and I choose to shop early and get done before the thousands of attendees arrive. Tlacolula is the county seat of the valley and is much more progressive than the surrounding towns and villages. Many of the people from nearby indigenous villages do their shopping in Tlacolula. Their traditional dress is a great contrast to many of the modern dressed residents of Tlacolula. It’s a classic scenario of old world new world. After countless visits to this town I have yet to tire of it’s uniqueness.

Mitla’s population is about 11,000. It’s also an international tourist site. Some of it’s archeological ruins have been dated back 10,000 years.  Their Saturday market is also very popular but is a fraction of the size of Tlacolula’s. Walking the streets in Mitla at any hour is possible. Violent crime is almost nonexistent. Wonderful hand craft items can be purchased in Mitla including Mezcal, a strong drink made from the maguey plant. I believe the producers shoot for about 46% alcohol. The high from Mezcal is like no other drink. It’s almost drug like. Liters can be purchased for as little as two dollars a bottle so it is the drink of choice. Abuse is rampant. Three month binges are not unusual. Poverty and disparity are often motivating factors. While Tlacolula shuts down before dark for the most part. Many stores and restaurants remain open in Mitla until eleven or later. A walk during early night in Mitla is like a walk through small town America fifty years ago. 

Don Pedrillo, the name of our home and the surrounding land, is an old Spanish hacienda. It was built sometime in the late sixteen hundreds. The building which we have converted into our home was the warehouse portion of the Hacienda. The walls are three feet thick and the roof at the peak is about twenty feet high. It has been an incredible experience turning those walls into a home. Much of the work was completely foreign to us. We have our friends to thank for their patience and advice. Some projects I refused to bend on. I was adamant about doing it my way. Consequently we’ve created a conglomeration of a mixed cultured dwelling. For several years one of my major preoccupations was staying cool. It turns out that keeping warm might be a greater concern. I am already considering having a wood stove built to remove the morning chill. It appears as though a range from the high sixties to the low seventies is going to be the average temperature inside the house regardless of the temperature outside.

Our lives are fuller than they have been in several years. Between working on our home, visiting and entertaining friends, exploring the area, adjusting to the culture, and giving sufficient attention to our dogs Scooter and Einstein our days are incredibly satisfying. We have high speed internet and are using Skype to communicate along with Facebook and email. We look forward to visits from friends and family.